INSTRUCTIONS FOR THE HOT SUMMER MONTHS
A container is an artificial environment
where the plant is large compared to the root system. For this reason, extra
care must be taken when first planted out during the heat of summer.
1. If you have an open truck,
bring a tarp or something to cover the plants. Shield the plants behind the
passenger compartment as much as possible. Trees must lie down. How would you
feel with a 50-60 mph wind on you for twenty miles or so? We can also deliver.
Ask for a price for your location. Water your plants when you get home.
2. On hot days, we water plants at
the nursery at least twice a day. When you get your plants home, if you can, put
them in a shaded spot until you are ready to plant. Trees may need to be tied up
to keep them from falling over. Leaves can get burnt if lying on the hot ground.
Planting in the evening or early morning is easier on you and the plants.
3. Dig the hole twice as wide as
the container and just slightly deeper. Mix about 1/3 or so of compost or
planter mix with the native soil and use this as backfill. Aged manure can be
used also. Knock the bucket off the plant. If this is difficult, lay it flat on
the ground and stomp on it with your foot or knock the pot off with a stick. You
usually never have to cut a plastic pot off. Some plants may be root bound,
meaning that roots are circling or very crowed in the pot. You can lightly
scruff roots with your finger or clippers on lightly rooted plants. Heavily
rooted plants must be loosened with clippers, a knife or shovel sometimes
cutting the roots to stop circling. This is especially important for trees to
keep them from falling over when they mature. Put the plant in the hole and make
sure it is at the same level at the soil. The deeper the hole, the higher the
plants should be to allow for settling. Fill in the hole with the mix you made
and tamp lightly. Fertilize with slow release fertilizer tabs (placed at least
6” under the soil) or all-purpose garden fertilizer. Make a big berm around the
plant. Put a couple inches of mulch on top and flood irrigate. Do not depend on
drip irrigation to initially water your plant. Using mulch not only keeps the
soil from drying out, it also keeps the roots cool and adds nutrients as it
slowly breaks down. Use bark, straw, pine needles, compost – whatever.
4. New plants should be watered
every day in the summer for the first few weeks. Soil factors should be taken
into account also. A heavy sticky clay will hold more water than a sandy
fast-draining soil. If the water does not drain down within 15 minutes, you can
drown the plant with too much water – especially native or drought tolerant
plants. Plants can always be planted on a low mound if drainage is poor. Dripped
plants should be supplemented with occasional flooding the first month to ensure
that the original root ball does not dry out.
5. Tall trees should be double
staked the first year or two to allow movement so that the trees will develop
caliper quicker. Little side branches can slowly be removed or cut back as the
tree matures. They are left on to protect the tree from sun and to help thicken
the trunk faster.
6. After about a month, as the
plants get established, you can back off on the water some going to every other
day or a few times a week. Be prepared to increase watering if the temperatures
soar. New plantings will tend to need more frequent watering. Established
plantings will often get by with only two or three watering’s a week on drip and
one or two watering’s a week with hose or sprinklers, especially if everything
Rising Sun Nursery